An Unconventional Guide to Milan
Stories and recs from a fashion & cafe obsessed former student :)
A dear friend of mine is visiting Milan and asked me for some recommendations. Fortunately, I also wanted to write about this for a while, and share some stories behind my favorite spots in the city where fashion and design flourish. When I lived in Milan as a bright-eyed, curiously ambitious 20 year old, I made a lot of memories exploring with friends, or just walking around with my headphones plugged in. This list doesn’t have the basics– I don’t have to write an article to tell you to visit the Duomo. That’s what Google is for! So, without further ado, here’s my personal favorites in Milan, separated by category:
Food
I’m not going to lie, eating in Milan as an Asian-American was kind of hard at first. I got tired of eating paninos and pasta very quickly, and tried to sustain myself off of eggs and rice. I wondered why I looked so good in photos… was it something in the air, or was I just hungry? (just kidding.) However, I would gladly fly back to eat at some of these places where the food is just as good, if not better, than memory serves.
Osteria dell’Oca Giuliva
This restaurant, near the Bocconi neighborhood, was my absolute favorite restaurant in Milan. I took friends, family, and a date here, to the point where I felt like a lowkey regular. The restaurant has a beautiful and homey ambiance, from dimly lit lights to the duck-themed decor that can be found all over the walls. Once, when bringing my friends here, the staff looked at us and joked that “tutto il mondo” was sitting at a table together. Nothing beats the familiarity and the comfort here, and you can get SO MUCH WINE for… 5 euros… NYC could never… Anyways, order the pasta with eggplant or the arrabbiata here, with a carafe of red wine, and be ready to have intimate conversations and smile with company.
Fonderie Milanesi
My friend and I were taking a Marketing Psychology class, and invited our professor, whom we adored for his humor and intellectualism, out for drinks. In the USA, this would have been downright unacceptable (two YOUNG UNDERGRADS inviting their OLDER MALE professor out for happy hour??! GASP! The HORROR!) but when you think about it, it’s just like a fun office hours. Not that weird at all, and that’s how you connect with people in the world. Anyways, we went to Fonderie Milanesi, also near the Bocconi area, which has a wonderful aperitivo which will double for dinner. If the weather is nice, sit outside, order a drink, and then enjoy home cooked sides in a buffet, which you get for free alongside a drink. While we talked about marketing, culture, and global psychology, you can chat about whatever you want while sipping on a glass of prosecco.
Gelateria La Romana
Order. The. Biscotto. Della. Nonna. Flavor. Thank me later!!
On a more real note, I would always go here after going out with friends. Nothing like post club gelato, right? Or that time I dragged my friends to a fashion week event to go on a date with a Parisian runway model who brought his friends too (his friends were creeps, unfortunately. Sorry! Perhaps in a different universe). My friends hated his friends, and so we bid farewell and got gelato dressed in our fashion finest (for me, my Dion Lee sweater and Shushu Tong boots).
Tandoori Bites
This is the best Indian food in Milan. You can’t get more authentic than a kid doing math problems in the corner while you’re ordering masala chai and aloo jeera. So, if you happen to get sick of pasta, I’d highly recommend this restaurant, which was like a taste of home for me.
A’Vucciria
I loved getting the 1.5 euro arancini alla norma here, and then I’d go sit by the canal and eat while watching the trams go by. When I revisited Milan, I ate here and reminisced about all the times I walked these streets daily. Such a great snack, and in a great location to stop and people watch.
Macarons at the Rinascente
Okayyy, I had to throw this one in here because of how much I love them. But go to the Rinascente, take the escalators to the top floor, and go to the cioccolateria booth. These are literally the BEST macarons I’ve had in my life, and you can get interesting flavors like rose, dark chocolate raspberry, and lavender blueberry. I may not have bought any clothes in the Rinascente (#broke), but I always would swipe my credit card for a few macarons here and there.
Other Recommendations:
Navigio 48: good handmade pasta + in the heart of the Navigli canal.
LùBar: absolutely beautiful, in a modern design kind of way.
Gastronomia Yamamoto: Authentic and yummy Japanese food!
Drink (Coffee + Bars)
What I did the most in Milan, from day to night. Nothing more needs to be said!
Colibri
A bookshop-slash-cafe that turns into a bar in the evening, stop by in the morning for coffee and stay for a glass of wine later. You can sit indoors or outdoors: the place feels like someone opened their home into a space for people to meet. I first discovered this place on a first date. Didn’t like the guy, but I liked the place– and found myself going back again, this time with friends.
Officina Milano
Oh, where I even begin about Officina. Ranked as one of the world’s top 50 bars in a recent year, they have an ever changing and relevant cocktail menu. Make a reservation if you don’t want to stand, because it can get pretty crowded at night. The bartenders are so friendly, and if you’re pretty (or Indian… shoutout that one server) you just might get a free shot alongside your specialty cocktail. Order the espresso martini if you’re feeling basic, but you really can’t go wrong with any drink here. My favorite? A white chocolate truffle whiskey old fashioned. The way to my heart is so simple.
Backdoor 43
The world’s smallest bar, and appointment only, Backdoor 43 can seat two to four people, and there is no menu. A very intimate experience, you just tell the bartender what you like, and they make something for you on the spot. We had great conversation, and I had a lemon whiskey drink (obviously), while my friend had a banana-flavored cocktail (creative!)
I Mirador
This is the summer bar spot to visit– when I went back to Milan this summer, I caught up with a friend here. We admired great views of the city, and the design is absolutely beautiful, complete with a rooftop pool and origami light up boats.
White Rabbit
A password-entry only speakeasy with live music and a 1920s themed vibe, this place is truly extraordinary, and feels like a little secret. Every month, they send out an email, containing clues to a monthly password that gets you inside. Get it wrong, and you will not be allowed to enter. I went here with a man I was going out with, and we kind of agonized over the password (until I secretly asked ChatGPT… ugh. I know). The drinks were delicious and came with little sweets, and we talked and talked until the live music played (romance songs). That date was so fun, and I’ve come to learn that connections forged in dimly lit, romantic speakeasies are sometimes the ones that make you truly live in the ever so fleeting present. I still am on their email list, as I forgot to unsubscribe, and when I see the letter in my inbox, I smile.
Libreria Verso
A bookstore and wine bar, this is a fun place to peruse while sipping on a glass of Chianti. They have exclusive magazines and fashion books that are hard to come by for a reasonable price in the States, so be sure to visit if you like niche writings. I got a copy of 032c and Interview Magazine (both editions featuring The Weeknd. Once again, I’m a simple woman!)
Gattullo
Ok, back to coffee. This iconic destination is a storied institution of Milan, where you can get an espresso and small pastry at the counter. The elderly women and men will have 100% out-dressed you though, so best of luck to you.
Frizzi E Lazzi
This place is very affordable, and a great place to chill with friends or a partner. I had been a few times, and the highlight is the open-air courtyard lined by apartment buildings, where you can see people hanging their laundry out to dry while you sip on a Hugo Spritz below.
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Shop
I’ll spare you the stories on this one– almost all of these are vintage and thrift stores where you can find amazing authenticated designer pieces for very reasonable prices. I got a Loro Piana sweater for 60 euros, and some of my favorite shirts, all vintage and in great condition at these stores. Hunt for the right piece and you may score– like the Gucci top that somehow was exactly my size, or the runway Moschino skirt I should have bought but didn’t. (the prices were SO good, so you don’t really have to break the bank shopping for these investment pieces.)
Bivio
Cavalli E Nastri Brera
Urzi Vintage Selection
Bottega Rossa
THE CLOISTER
Parks, Parks, Parks!!
Milan can get kind of dreary at times, and I found myself craving green space frequently. I’d go on long walks all over the city, stopping to read books (Crime & Punishment, and Norwegian Wood) on various park benches. I would also journal, and picnic with friends. When spring began to bloom, these little spaces turned magical, and felt like my secret to happiness.
Brera Botanical Garden: good for strolls and flowers!!
Giardino Della Villa Belgiojoso Bonaparte: Extremely romantic picnic spot. Drink red wine among the rose bushes, and nap in the sun and someone’s warm arms in these English-themed gardens with mini waterfalls and long, winding paths. Just be sure not to spill expensive wine on your lover’s clothes (whoops).
Parco Sempione: Ok, this is basic, but it is a must visit for Milan. Sip on a spritz and admire the castle in the park. You can walk through this park for quite a long time, and sometimes, there are music events held in the summer here.
Parco della Resistenza & Parco Alessandrina Ravizza: these two parks are near Bocconi and always bustling with locals and students alike. I would go here nearly every day and walk and talk with friends after classes or coffee.
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One last note: some basic places to visit include the Navigli Canal, Duomo, and the Galeria shopping. If you want to go clubbing, Gattopardo Milano is fun because they play Frank Sinatra at midnight. I’m more of a wine and museum person, but I think you all know that by now :)
THE END!
Ciao ciao! To anyone visiting, I hope you love your trip, and the city. I sure do, even as the years go by. Let me know what you think and if you’ve been to any of these places. Also, please tell me if you’d like my guides to other cities… putting these together brings me so much joy, especially when friends actually visit them. Until next time! X
